It’s Not All Downhill Only in Wengen

Apparently Italian ski racer Kristian Ghedina holds the record set in 1997 for the fastest descent of the world famous Lauberhorn ski race held every January above the town of Wengen, his time was just over 2 minutes and 24 seconds. The longest downhill race in the world on the FIS alpine calendar is 4.48 kilometres in length and includes such obstacles as the Hundschopf (Dog’s Head – crazy jump about one third of the way down), Kemen S (keep your speed up) and the Haneggschuss (Johan Clary of France recently broke the 100MPH barrier for the first time here in 2013).

It’s a tough challenge for even the very best ski racers in the world and the great thing about it is that you* too can give it a go. Not at their speeds of course and perhaps with a few stops to take in some of the most spectacular visits in the Alps, including the Eiger North Face, Monch and Jungfrau peaks, but ski it you must because it’s truly one of the best pistes in the Alps.

So as the early morning March sunshine glistened off the groomed, empty and wide open piste that forms the start of the famous Lauberhorn, I entered the wooden starting hut with expectations of beating Kristian’s long held record. Two minutes and twenty three seconds later I found myself about a quarter of the way down – I knew I wouldn’t be able to resist those views.

Wengen is a special place. I feel able to state that quite confidently because its attributes combine to form a long list of unique attractions that equal the greater sum of its parts. Firstly, access to the town is by mountain railway only, which might seem somewhat inconvenient but the railway is easy to use, departs at regular intervals and of course is on time. Passengers enjoy the twenty minute journey up from the town of Lauterbrunnen at a pace from a more civilised age. The town itself is therefore ‘car free’ although a few utility vehicles buzz around the narrow streets ferrying people and goods to the various hotels that dominate the accommodation scene.

Then of course there is the Eiger, technically claimed by the larger neighbouring town of Grindlewald, but within easy reach of Wengen by yet another mountain railway that links the two resorts via Kleine Scheidegg which also serves as a starting point for skiers.

Then, to top it all off, you have what appears to be the most ridiculous feat of engineering known to mankind, a railway that takes you through the Eiger and up to the Jungraujoch, Europe’s highest railway station at 3454 meters above sea level. Here you can spend hours viewing the impressive glaciers, learning the history of mountaineering in the area, eating and even shopping.

Up the Jungraujoch looking through the window onto the Eiger

This makes Wengen one of the best resorts for non-skiers as the choices are numerous and include the chance to visit the town of Interlaken a short train ride away where a bustling shopping centre and a variety of international restaurants would easily fill a day trip.

With all these distractions it’s easy to forget about the skiing, but it’s certainly not forgettable once you start exploring. Best suited to intermediate skiers who enjoy travelling to different areas, Wengen is linked with the ski area of Grindlewald and also includes the Murren Schilthorn side of the valley too.

Al Fresco Dining in Wengen

There is plenty of off-piste options, especially on the Murren side as the altitude is higher and there are steeper, more open slopes for skiers looking to find powder. A Mountain Guide is essential here because the off-piste terrain is steep and prone to avalanches in certain conditions.

In the 2012/13 winter ski season a brand new 6 person chairlift on Wixi takes skiers up to the very start of the Lauberhorn downhill run. This replaces a much slower 2 person lift and really enhances this side of the mountain. The Eigernordwand chairlift is another recent additions that provides much faster access to some steeper terrain perched on the lower side of the Eiger itself. Nursery slopes for beginners are available right down in the town or if snow is scarce, there is a learner’s area right up at Kleine Scheidegg that is accessed by the mountain railway.

Après Ski in Wengen is a fairly calm and relaxed affair with a few bars spread along the one main street. The Crystal is basic but often has a good atmosphere straight after the ski lifts shut with a mix of locals and resort workers. Rocks has a more resort worker, UK feel and is good for watching sport, although both times I went in I was did not feel particularly welcomed by the staff. There is a nightclub underneath the Hotel Silberhorn which is directly opposite the railway station (no noise at all which I can personally testify as I stayed right above the entrance door of the club).

Lunch in Wengen

Most visitors stay in catered hotel accommodation or self-catered apartments with beds roughly divided 50/50 between the two. There are 6 four star hotels in Wengen, many with Spa facilities including the Silberhorn which also has an excellent buffet breakfast and four course evening meal in a recently re-furbished restaurant. Families are well looked after here and the resort is very self-contained and the lack of traffic is refreshing – non-skiers have plenty of options.

The British outnumber any other foreign visitors quite considerably at 22% of the total, but I got the feeling that many of them come back year after year and almost look comfortably at home wondering around the town or pottering about on the trains – I’d like to think I might be one of them myself one day.

Crystal Ski (www.crystalski.co.uk) offers a week’s stay at the four-star Finest Hotel Silberhorn in Wengen at £1068.00 (week 11th January 2014) including flights from Gatwick to Geneva (with airport lounge access), transfers, half board and afternoon tea. Crystal Ski also offer the two-star Hotel Bernerhof for the same week at £575 half-board including flights, transfers and afternoon tea.