Paradiski Review 2105

A Guide to Paradiski (Les Arcs & La Plagne) 2015

Paradiski is one of the world’s biggest ski areas and incorporates Les Arcs, La Plagne and Peisey-Vallandry.  A product of France’s purpose built ski resort development projects of the 1960’s, each resort has it’s own unique personality and I stayed at Arc 2000.  As with most of the resorts in Paradiski, Arc 2000 has a ski in/out plaza with shops, bars and restaurants situated around it.  The huge buildings that make up this main area dominate the skyline with long arced roofs that can be seen from miles around.

Arc 2000 is the highest resort of Les Arcs and is sited in a huge bowl at the base of the imposing Aiguille Rouge (3226m).  The top of Aiguille Rouge can be easily reached by fast Gondolas from Arc 2000 and offers fabulous panoramic views including the top of Mount Pourri.  Be warned though, as the descent down is not for beginners, with steep black and red runs the only options.  One particular black run is an incredible 7km long and takes you all the way down to the small village of Villaroger.

It is the area of Paradiski that pioneered snowboarding in Europe with the cult Regis Rolland film ‘Apocalypse Snow’ way back in 1983

I was lucky enough to be riding with a very experienced mountain guide who had been snowboarding in the area since he was 4, which was back in the pioneering days of snowboarding in the early 1980’s. From the top of Aiguille, he took me across a glacier, before dropping into an incredibly steep (off-piste) descent back down to Arc 2000.  It was very challenging with many rocks to navigate around and the obvious signs of recent avalanches.

Paradiski - Les Arcs
Paradiski – Les Arcs

It is the area of Paradiski that pioneered snowboarding in Europe with the cult Regis Rolland film ‘Apocalypse Snow’ way back in 1983, and it is easy to see why with excellent free riding opportunities across such varied terrain.  The aptly named ‘Apocalypse’ Parc (between Arc 1600 and 1800) has the reputation of being one of the finest in Europe with different lines for all abilities.  Outside of the park it’s a snowboarders dream with plenty of natural kickers by the side of the piste.  Beginner riders will also enjoy the wide sweeping runs although there are not many green/blue runs to play around on and there are flat runs negotiate if you are not careful.

Les Arcs is linked to La Plagne courtesy of the double decker Vanoise Express. This huge ultra-fast gondola holds up to 200 people, has a crossing time of only 4 minutes and can take 4000 people per hour!

I was actually impressed with the ski lift network in Paradiski as many of them are modern and fast, including the new 8-seater in La Plagne.  Although I was not in peak season, it is still one of the busiest ski areas in the world but it did not feel crowded and I hardly had to queue for any lifts.  Most of the runs are vast and wide which gives a real feeling of tranquility and space.

Being purpose built, all Les Arcs and La Plagne are conveniently ski in/out resorts and I loved the fact that I could snowboard right through the main area of La Plagne and out the other side without stopping!  Arc 1950 was designed with Canadian influences and is very attractive and worth a fly-by.  Standing in the middle looking at the architecture certainly gives the impression of being in a small town in the Canadian Rockies.

This I could not pass up on and found myself speeding at 127Kph down the Olympic track, in a four-man bobsleigh

One of the growing trends in skiing at the moment is Speed Riding and I was fortunate to witness a beginners lesson in this exhilarating sport.  If you do not know what Speed Riding is, it is basically skiing using a mini-parachute that is easy to steer and using the terrain to jump off ledges, float down and carry on skiing (James Bond style!).

Paradiski is not all about skiing/snowboarding and have recently opened the impressive Mille 8 (no, it is not a French Eminem film!).  This complex is on the slopes and includes a luxury aquatic centre (with hot tubs, a waterfall, saunas, and steam baths), as well as a long toboggan run.

Bobsleigh Olympic Experience - Paradiski
Bobsleigh Olympic Experience – Paradiski (Snow.Guide journalist Mark Barber is 3rd from front)

At La Plagne you can go one better with the Bobsleigh Olympic experience with olympic medalist Bruno Mingeon. This I could not pass up on and found myself speeding at 127Kph down the Olympic track, in a four-man bobsleigh with Bruno (driving) and two from the French Bobsleigh team.

The G Force is incredible and it was difficult to keep my head straight as we hurtled around the corners, especially as my head kept knocking against the ice walled banks (although this is perfectly normal, I have never been so thankful for wearing a helmet!).

The whole experience with Bruno lasts about 3 hours as he shares his skills and wisdom of the sport in preperation of your ride.  This really is an exhilarating and thrilling once-in-a-lifetime experience that should definitely be on anyones bucket list.

As mentioned, I stayed at the resort of Arc 2000 in the hotel MMV Altitude of which I found to be very pleasant.  The bedrooms are large and functional with modern bathrooms equipped with decent power showers.  My only criticism is the colour scheme of the decor are drab throughout; especially the corridors which seem a bit morose.

The meals are buffet style with a different theme for each night.  Although, by no means up to Michelin star standard, I really enjoyed the cuisine and you can help yourself to the house wine throughout and on certain nights lager is available on tap.

There is a large bar and entertainment area of which kids entertainment is scheduled early evening which is ideal for families.  Unfortunately, the bar did lack an atmosphere for evening drinks while I was there but I am sure it is different in high-season.

MMV Altitude is not at the top of the Arc 2000 resort and so is not a ski in/out hotel, but it is only a short walk up to the main lift of the complex.

The Apres Ski scene is relatively quite in Arc 2000 with the Whistler’s Dream the only exception.

It is full of young brits and is busy during the Happy Hour of between 5-6pm with people enjoying a  quick pint after a hard day on the slopes.  It get’s even busier at night with good live music from contemporary young bands.  The price of a pint was not as excessive as I had envisioned, with being only 4 Euros in Happy Hour and about 6 Euros any other time.  Not bad for a French resort!

Arc 1950
Arc 1950

Overall, I was really impressed with the Paradiski area and thought it was one of the most interesting ski areas I have been to with each resort having it’s own unique character.  It is  ideal for all levels of skiers but for exploring the area, there could be too many flats for a snowboarder to contend with.  Paradiski prides itself on the diverse amount of activities it offers and the new Mille 8  complex is certainly a bold statement cementing this direction. The ski in/ski out centres of the Les Arcs resorts and La Plagne are family friendly especially with no traffic to contend with.  The key word to Paradiski is convenience with every part of the area accessible by a fast ski lift system and you are never too far away from the slopes.

I left Paradiski with a longing to explore more and a feeling of unfinished business.  I could visit another ten times and still leave with the same feeling!  This in itself speaks volumes for Paradiski – I will return.